‘Breathing in the fragrances of the Atlas cedar trees’: readers’ favourite places in Morocco

‘Breathing in the fragrances of the Atlas cedar trees’: readers’ favourite places in Morocco
Share:
‘Breathing in the fragrances of the Atlas cedar trees’: readers’ favourite places in Morocco
Author: Guardian readers
Published: Feb, 21 2025 07:00

From unexpected city charms in Rabat to the dunes of the Sahara and a festival celebrating nomadic life, our tipsters share their best discoveries. The calm city of Khenifra is well worth a detour from the main tourist routes of Morocco. It enjoys a lovely location on the banks of the Oum Er-Rbia river and is surrounded by the Atlas mountains, which keep the air fresh, clean and invigorating for strolling around. It’s also just a short bus ride away from the Khenifra national park. I spent two days hiking there enjoying beautiful lakeside walks breathing in the fragrances of the Atlas cedar trees. Don’t miss the source of the Oum Er-Rbia and its gentle waterfall, tumbling down the reddish rocks.

 [A man with a skateboard stands and waits his turn with his hands on his hips, with spectators behind him at a skate park overlooking a bay]
Image Credit: the Guardian [A man with a skateboard stands and waits his turn with his hands on his hips, with spectators behind him at a skate park overlooking a bay]

Taghazout, a 30-minute drive north of Agadir, is already on the map as a surf destination, but as the sun goes down the town’s skatepark is the place to head. Built in just a few weeks on public ground by 100 volunteers from around the globe, it’s become a community hub, as well as a place for visitors to gather and witness some epic tricks against the stunning ocean backdrop. Skateboards and safety gear are available to rent, and lessons are available. Because the scene feels more inclusive than at UK parks, you may well be tempted.

 [Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakech.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakech.]

Guardian Travel readers' tips. Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage. The Medina Stories food tour (about £35 a head) in Marrakech is just fabulous. The guide, Rachid, is a trove of historical and culinary expertise, taking you to more than a dozen off-the-beaten-track stalls, bakeries, cafes and restaurants to snack on all manner of local delicacies, from homemade yoghurt and breads to cow spleen sandwiches and snails. You end up drinking mint tea overlooking the bustle of Jemaa el-Fnaa. It’s a brilliant entry to the medina for disoriented tourists. We even took our toddler and he absolutely loved it, except the snails.

 [Under a blazing high sun and a deep blue sky, the ancient casbah at Tamnougalt, near Agdz, Morocco.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Under a blazing high sun and a deep blue sky, the ancient casbah at Tamnougalt, near Agdz, Morocco.]

Matt Bishop. On the road between the legendary fort of Aït Benhaddou and the desert paradise of Merzouga is a little-known town called Agdz, a peaceful haven with a huge ancient casbah. In the north of the town, surrounded by palm and pomegranate trees, the casbah is a relic of the caravan trading route to Timbuktu, and is a maze of mud-brick houses and fortifications. Having the opportunity to walk freely through such a vast historical site without any interruption or fee was a unique experience.

 [Elevated view looking down on the Red Mosque of Adai, with a tall red tower, surrounded by lower orange buildings and palm trees, in a rocky valley]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Elevated view looking down on the Red Mosque of Adai, with a tall red tower, surrounded by lower orange buildings and palm trees, in a rocky valley]

The steep, craggy mountains of the Ameln valley in the Anti-Atlas tower over the many Amazigh villages dotted along the valley floor. Ancient houses and minarets cling to the mountainside. Occasionally, you may hear sounds from behind a courtyard wall, but mostly it’s a quiet and enchanting place where you could spend weeks following the narrow paths between the villages. There are a handful of guesthouses – Bio Beldi in Ait Omgas has a simple, spacious two-bedroom apartment (€55 a night, B&B). The restaurant downstairs serves delicious dishes using food from the garden.

 [Exterior of the restaurant Taha the Grandson, Agadir, Morocco.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Exterior of the restaurant Taha the Grandson, Agadir, Morocco.]

The unpretentious and magnificently named Taha the Grandson restaurant on the promenade of Agadir was a real find among the more tourist-oriented beachfront places to eat. It is run by Iraqi Taha as a work of devotion to his late grandfather. We found friendly and helpful service, delicious Middle Eastern food (the Iraqi lentil soup was a delicious starter) and an expert lesson in how to make a proper cup of mint tea (it’s all in the pouring). On top of the wonderful food, it proved excellent value.

 [Bombino performing outdoors, during the day, at the Zamane festival in M’Hamid El Ghizlane, Morocco.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Bombino performing outdoors, during the day, at the Zamane festival in M’Hamid El Ghizlane, Morocco.]

Matt Lunt. Sign up to The Traveller. Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays. after newsletter promotion. Last November, my best friend and I attended the third Zamane festival in the small oasis town of M’Hamid El Ghizlane, on the edge of the Sahara. From Marrakech we drove through the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas mountains, stopping at our leisure to let the natural beauty of the surroundings and its people sink into our souls. We stayed in a beautiful and affordable casbah in the city of Ouarzazate. In the early evening of the first day of the festival we arrived and immersed ourselves in the music, the colours and the energy. A remarkable three-day celebration of nomadic life with the soundtrack of desert blues (a fusion of blues and rock from the Sahara). The performance of the headliner, Bombino, was a fitting climax to the whole unforgettable experience.

 [Ancient walls, with buildings behind and grass and palm trees in front]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Ancient walls, with buildings behind and grass and palm trees in front]

Humberto Pena. Rabat was the city break I didn’t know I needed. Often overlooked by tourists in favour of Marrakech or Fez, it offers a Moroccan experience that feels refreshingly unhurried. Wandering its medina, I was charmed by the warm greetings of locals, happy to help or simply let me browse their spices, leather and perfumes without the pressure I found elsewhere. Just steps away, the restless Atlantic Ocean provided a peaceful escape, with breezy walks along the shore clearing my mind. The city also has a sleek, modern tram system, making exploration effortless (and even offering free wifi). Visit before the secret gets out.

 [Rocks in front of an old town on a promontory ]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Rocks in front of an old town on a promontory ]

Share:

More for You

Top Followed