How to ace a solo trip to Marrakech: The best stays, spas and sights

Marrakech and I have history. I first visited way back in 2004 (before Instagram and Facebook), so some printed film photographs are the only documentation I have. Me and my boyfriend at the time stumbled into the main square as baby-faced travellers and took a room for the night with straw-filled pillows and a communal bathroom, hardly sleeping due to the riotous drumming booming in from the square below.

We then spent the following weeks getting lost in the labyrinthine souks (no Google maps) and witnessing snake charmers hypnotise cobras for photos. Over 20 years later, I decided to cast aside my memories of misadventure in Marrakech, and give it another shot. Since I travel solo for much of the time nowadays, I wanted to see how the city fared for females going it alone, too.

Arriving in late January after flying through a London hailstorm, I landed just as the burning red sun dropped below the horizon, making the light a stunning sight. The surrounding desert was aglow in tones I imagine are not too dissimilar to the surface of Mars. Certain that this time around, Morocco's imperial city was going to utterly capture my heart, I jumped into an airport taxi and made my way back into the Red City.

Where to sleep in Marrakech should be the biggest consideration for solo female travellers, since when shops shutter each night, the winding maze-like alleyways that make up the souk and city can become quite daunting and ominous. I wouldn’t recommend wandering around alone late at night. There are a few ways to remedy this; pick a hotel in a busy, easy-to-get-to part of town, take dinner at your hotel, or go out for early dinners so that you can be back safely in your room before it gets too late. You can’t rely on taxis in Marrakech, since many hotels can only be reached by tiny winding lanes that are impassable by cars.

Of the hotels I tried, IZZA was my favourite. A peaceful, intimate, art-filled haven — it is as charming as it is beautiful, appealing to solo travellers with its ‘house of friends’ ethos. Upon arrival, I was made to feel welcome with orange blossom and honey tea, served alongside a glimmering golden tray topped with sweet baklava. Then was shown to my bedroom, named Grace after the enigmatic Grace Jones.

Each of IZZA’s 14 flawless bedrooms are dubbed after similar 1960’s and 1970’s creatives, who are in some way connected to the socialite and interior designer, Bill Willis. Having spent around four decades in Marrakech, and as the previous owner of the building that now houses IZZA, Willis’s own black and white photographs dot the walls of the hotel providing a snapshot of his time there, alongside contemporary works of art from the likes of African artists Hicham Benohoud, Hassan Hajjaj and many more.

Aside from bedrooms that are made for relaxing in, the hotel’s pools and courtyards are idyllic, while the rooftop terrace is akin to a secret dreamworld, and ideal for solo travellers. Don’t miss dining at this atmospheric destination whether staying at IZZA or not.

See also: The best places to stay in Marrakech. Jardin Majorelle is still worth the trip, just don’t expect to have the gardens to yourself. Similarly, Marrakech’s souks are worth spending a few hours wandering around, if only to soak in the atmosphere.

Prepare to be met with the unmistakable scent of camel leather, heady local spices, and all manner of lotions and potions as you brush shoulders with an abundance of tourists. Expect to see trinkets, faux designer goods, donkeys pulling wooden carts and plenty of cats as you wander around among those on a quest to amass homewares and curio to furnish their homes with.

As the world’s leading platform for contemporary art from Africa and the African diaspora, the 1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair typically takes place in the city at the end of January each year, and is worth planning your trip around if you’re into art.

Morocco’s vibrant artistic landscape is fast picking up pace with this year seeing exhibitors from fifteen different countries. The fair culminated with the standout piece, Blank Stare by Amoako Boafo, being acquired by the Tate. Watch this space: he looks to be the next artist of the moment.

The former is IZZA’s pretty terrace restaurant; serving up small plates and good cocktails in whimsical surroundings, while the latter isn’t nearly as pretty but serves equally delicious dishes. It is the ideal spot to watch the sunset — be sure to book ahead. And while I usually adore watching local daily life unfold from unassuming cafes, Marrakech’s non-tourist cafes are predominantly packed full of men since they serve as social spaces for male interaction.

• Due to the latest influx of new flight routes it can be incredibly time-consuming even getting into Marrakech airport. Be sure to get to the airport early on the day of your departure, consider the full three hours, as a minimum. • A delightful yet crisp chill sweeps through Marrakech during early mornings and late evenings — don’t forget to pack some warm clothing.