I spent 48 hours in the ‘Pearl of the Baltic’ — the happiest place on Earth

As darkness spreads like a soft blanket across the sky, I step out of Helsinki Central Station and take a deep breath of what has been described as the cleanest air in Europe. The February chill pricks my cheeks as I admire the elegant streets of the Finnish capital, a city of seasonal restaurants, world-class saunas and art nouveau architecture. There is much to smile about; after all, Finland has been voted the happiest place on Earth seven years in a row.

As a mobility-conscious travel writer, I’ve come to evaluate how this Scandi capital accommodates visitors with accessibility needs. Finland’s status as a beacon of progressive values has been called into question over the past year by its ruling rightwing coalition. Long hospital waits, soaring food prices and rising homelessness are only some of the issues facing Finnish society, just like much of Europe.

But Finland remains streets ahead when it comes to disability inclusion, with the country long touted as a world leader in accessible public spaces — a reputation I was here to examine firsthand. And I found that Helsinki defies expectations. Part Nordic cool, part artistic haven, this is a city that reveals itself slowly and lingers in your mind, long after you leave.

Since losing the use of my leg following an illness in 1993, I have worn a full leg brace and walked with crutches. Helsinki is a mostly flat, pedestrian-friendly city; almost all of the most popular attractions are within walking distance of the city’s top hotels.

But if you feel the need, the tram network is also an excellent and affordable way to explore; unlimited hop-on-hop-off passes cost €10 for 24 hours, or €15 for 48 hours. Trams are accessible and free to wheelchair users. It is enshrined in Finnish law that disabled people should not be discriminated against because of their disability, so drop pavements and accessible entry points are catered for at the vast majority of shops, hotels and tourist sites.

Any public transport (taxi, tram and train) I made use of was easily accessible for me, but also for anyone with more challenging disabilities. I’m staying at Sokos Solo Pier 4, a new hotel in the trendy Katajanokka district surrounded by the cobbled Market Square, the imposing Suomenlinna fortress and a smorgasbord of palaces and grandiose cathedrals.

Solo Sokos Pier 4 is new and was designed with accessibility in mind, with eight accessible and adapted rooms plus a fully accessible entrance for wheelchair users. The dining room, roof terrace, lifts and lobby are also accessible, but the hotel’s sauna is not.

Outside on Market Square, the cobbles are certainly a challenge for wheels, but you can navigate around this thanks to pavements on either side of the square. Many airlines run daily flights from London to Helsinki. Low-cost Ryanair offers return fares from €131, while Norwegian Air starts from €187. KLM flies out of Manchester with return fares starting from €208, and Finn Air flies from Heathrow from £285.

Just a few minutes walk to downtown Helsinki, this neighbourhood has an island-like feel and has long been the haunt of Finnish luminaries, including Tove Jansson, creator of the beloved Moomins. Although Finland has a reputation for being expensive, prices are now mostly aligned with what we pay in the UK. Hotels vary depending on quality. My lodgings at the four-star Sokos Solo Pier 4 Hotel start from €148 per night, while standard rooms at the top-rated five-star Hotel Kamp go from €290 a night.

Value can still be found in the Finnish capital, at places like the three-star Omena Hotel Lonnrotinkanu which offers comfortable doubles from €69 per night. A coffee is a competitive €3 to €4 (cheaper than the UK!) whilst a beer will set you back slightly more, at around €8. Expect to pay somewhere between €40 and €60 for a mid-range evening meal.

Eager to sample local cuisine, I headed for Toppa, a restaurant in a building designed by the prolific architect Alvar Aalto. The menu brilliantly blends street food with fine-dining. Dishes like grilled octopus with sweet peppers (€16), Mapo Szechuan tofu (€16) and a sharing dish of Char Sieu pork (€42) caused my dinner companions to sigh with contentment.

The terrace captures stunning views of the city skyline,best enjoyed with one of their signature cocktails. It is worth noting that Toppa has received mixed reviews online (3.9 on Google and just 3 stars on Trip Advisor). While some praise its innovative menu, others mention poor service and tiny portion sizes. I can only say that my experience was overwhelmingly positive.

Helsinki 🇫🇮: 11 Things to do #helsinki #helsinkifinland #helsinkirestaurants #helsinkifinland🇫🇮😍☺️ #travel #europe #europa #capitalcity #thingstodo #finland #finland🇫🇮 #finlandia #finlandia🇫🇮. A more intimate setting is Wellamo, a cosy Nordic-themed restaurant on the edge of the upscale Katajanokka neighbourhood.