It’s also been my constant backdrop for the past few days as I walk the Wales Coast Path exploring the relationship of the people of this land to the sea – how it has shaped society, how humanity has tried to tame it and how the sea will inevitably prevail.
Three walks along the Wales Coast Path offer a fascinating insight into the legends, culture and industry that shaped this stunning outpost.
On a clear day, its jagged, alluring and yet foreboding topography – stretching outward into the Irish Sea – is easily visible from as far south as Aberystwyth.
Now, having reached Porthmadog (a town built on reclaimed sand from the Glaslyn estuary), I’m ready to experience the entrancing, wild-looking beauty of the Llŷn up close.
As I set out, the tide is retreating at a rate that makes me think someone has pulled the plug on the entire estuary.