‘It smells of salt marshes, maritime pines, peace and quiet’: readers’ favourite travel discoveries in France

‘It smells of salt marshes, maritime pines, peace and quiet’: readers’ favourite travel discoveries in France
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‘It smells of salt marshes, maritime pines, peace and quiet’: readers’ favourite travel discoveries in France
Author: Guardian readers
Published: Feb, 07 2025 07:00

Our tipsters share their French delights, from fresh oysters and mountain trains to surf beaches and pretty harbour towns. A world away from the popular resorts and marinas of the central Vendée is L’île de Noirmoutier. The unpretentious and reasonably priced L’Océane stands out among the peninsula’s seafood bars and is always our first port of call. Behind its unprepossessing exterior, the freshest oysters with bread, butter and lemon are a mere €8.90 for a half dozen. There are even cheaper plates of simple shellfish – clams and winkles – and piping hot moules frites for just €11.90. La belle vie, quoi.

 [The village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie sits beneath limestone cliffs.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [The village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie sits beneath limestone cliffs.]

Morag Sweeting. Camping du Montdenier is an idyllic, isolated spot in the mountains just above the Verdon Gorge. You can spend days relaxing in the surrounding hills and lavender fields, or take advantage of the mountain biking, horse riding and paragliding on offer near the site. When you fancy a bit more life, take a trip down to one of the restaurants in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a beautiful village that sits beneath limestone cliffs and is famous for its pottery. For the more adventurous, Verdon is the birthplace of sport climbing, or you can stay closer to the ground on a day trip canoeing down the gorge.

 [Le Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval is a ‘magical construction’ built by a postman using stones collected on his route.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Le Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval is a ‘magical construction’ built by a postman using stones collected on his route.]

Guardian Travel readers' tips. Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage. My tip is a visit to Le Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval in Hauterives, between Lyon and Valence. This magical construction is the work of an eccentric postman who in the late 19th century collected stones on his postal route, which he used to build his dream palace over 33 years. It’s an enchanting mix of mythology, architecture and quotes that will inspire and transport you. Worth the meagre €9.50 entry cost.

 [The narrow streets of Amboise in the Loire valley.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [The narrow streets of Amboise in the Loire valley.]

Melodie. Amboise in the Loire valley is the perfect base for soaking up French culture. The small cobbled streets are filled with an array of fantastic patisseries, bars and restaurants. A visit to the boucherie Maison Cahelo felt like an immersion into French life, full of high-quality delights. We spent a wonderful afternoon sampling local wine and people-watching at Caveau des Vignerons d’Amboise. You can easily cycle for miles, mainly off road, following the well-signposted Loire à Vélo which allowed us to visit some of the incredible chateaux of the region.

 [A family enjoying a day out on a velorail system.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [A family enjoying a day out on a velorail system.]

Matthew. Vélorails, open-topped metal cycle carts on disused railway tracks, can be found in most areas of France. Each cart has two seats for pedallers and a bench seat behind. They are a wonderful way to see unspoilt France and, if you’re a pedaller, get some exercise. Take drinks and food, and warm clothes in cooler weather. Costs vary but are generally reasonable. Some venues offer extras such as batteries or awnings, but most are basic. Toilets are usually available. With a surprise round every corner, and thrilling (though rattly) downhill runs, it’s an unbeatable experience.

 [Petit train d’Artouste is open May to October.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Petit train d’Artouste is open May to October.]

Helen Kara. In the French Pyrenees, we took a drive up the stunning Ossau valley to Col du Pourtalet on the Spanish border. The 20-mile journey passes an impossibly scenic bouldering and picnic spot at Pont de Camps and the chance to ride one of France’s highest narrow-gauge railways, the precipitous Petit train d’Artouste (open May to October) at 2,000 metres. There’s an 800-metre cable car ascent just to get aboard! Look out for four species of vultures that live in the Ossau valley – we were lucky to encounter dozens, fighting over an unfortunate sheep. For the train ride, park the car at Lac de Fabrèges.

 [The town’s botanic gardens.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [The town’s botanic gardens.]

Isabel Thomas. Sign up to The Traveller. Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays. after newsletter promotion. Roscoff is a delicious Breton time warp with a pretty boat-filled harbour, charming shops and good restaurant places. This tiny town is much more than a port to drive out of. Disembarking early in the morning from Plymouth, we breakfast on croissants and coffee. Before getting to our gîte, we visit the wonderful botanic gardens, stroll round the town and plan a trip to the Île de Batz just off the coast. The well-equipped gîte, Rannic, is simple but comfortable, owned by a former mayor whose initiatives made Roscoff the warmly welcoming place it is. We’ve been nine times!.

 [Plage de Moliets.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Plage de Moliets.]

Elizabeth. Plage de Moliets is a great place to learn to surf. There are several surf schools and shops that hire equipment in the small town, as well as numerous surf-and-stay camps in the large forest campsite next to the beach. The village is only an hour from Biarritz, Bayonne and Bordeaux if you get bored of surfing and fancy a day trip, or if you catch the bug, you can head half an hour along the coast to Hossegor, where the French leg of the World Surf League Championship Tour takes place in October.

 [Inside Fontevraud Abbey.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [Inside Fontevraud Abbey.]

Mollie. Fontevraud Abbey is a tucked away gem in the Loire valley. This medieval monastery-turned-art gallery not only exudes timeless charm with its regal tombs and cloisters, but it also houses a Michelin-starred restaurant, Fontevraud L’Ermitage. It’s all perfect for a solo traveller; wander the grounds, soak in the ambience and indulge in exquisite cuisine. It’s a serene retreat where history and modernity converge, leaving you inspired and rejuvenated.

 [A flying pear inside Erik Satie’s house in Honfleur.]
Image Credit: the Guardian [A flying pear inside Erik Satie’s house in Honfleur.]

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