The first morning we set out to walk the estate, admiring wild woods of oak and silver birch, a clear stream in its rocky bed and hundreds of butterflies, as well as Volker and Lilli’s organically reared horses, goats, buffaloes and friendly, vocal herd of highland cattle.
The site is crowded with carved wooden grave markers bearing bright naive paintings of that occupant’s life – weaving, cooking, teaching, bookkeeping, lumberjacking – or death, in a road accident, say, all by local artist Stan Ioan Pătraș.
Strict fasting rules in Orthodox lent (3 March-19 April this year) prohibit meat for the whole period, and dairy or eggs on many days, which means local food includes tasty vegan dishes, such as zacuscă, a sort of spreadable ratatouille, and spicy red chilli jam.
They were soon regular visitors to the village of Botiza, and in 2005 bought the land that is now the heart of their Şesuri estate, and an old wooden house to renovate.
A German couple who renovate abandoned wooden houses and rent them out offer a window onto a traditional way of life in the north of the country.
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