Gone is the deep Gucci red. Here is the dark Gucci green. The fashion house signaled its creative transition on the first day of Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday by sheathing the runway in a plush green carpet and pleated drapery. Red was the signature color of the now-ended Sabato De Sarno era, and the color switch put a definitive line under it.
Transition team. The design team had just 2 1/2 weeks to pull together a new collection after De Sarno's hasty departure after just two years. They've done it in less: The Alessandro Michele era launched in 2015 with just a five-day runway. With Michele, there were signs of what was to come: pussy bows and eclectic looks that appeared plucked from a flea market. It’s hard to know what from the runway signals the brand’s new direction.
Lush looks recall the past. The collection heavily referenced Gucci’s past. Cropped boxy suit jackets were reminiscent of the 1960s, worn with mini skirts for her, or slim trousers for him. Slinky silk with lace trim dresses heralded the 1990s. Deconstructed pussy-bow blouses trailed romantically, a wave to the Michele era. And essential pencil skirts with slits and cigarette pants recalled even more recent seasons.
The overall mood was lush, with faux fur, satins and mother of pearl leather, setting a luxurious tone. Front row guests for the Gucci interim included Daisy Edgar Jones, Jessica Chastain, Parker Posey and Dev Patel. Trend watch. Boxy suit jackets with flat pockets, reminiscent of the 1960s. Faux fur coats. Long flowing satiny scarves.
