OPINION - I spent 16 years at the top of British fashion — and this is what I learnt

As I step into my final season as CEO of the British Fashion Council, I can’t help but look back and reflect on the extraordinary moments I’ve been able to witness in my 16 years at the helm. The most iconic? Sitting next to the late Queen on the front row in 2018, when she presented the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II award for British design to Richard Quinn.

Her presence at the show and in the designer showrooms underscored the immense power of visibility. A single endorsement — whether from royalty, a celebrity, or a global influencer — can transform a brand’s trajectory overnight. I hope that these figures understand and take seriously the simple act of their presence and tangible support. British fashion is both an industrial lever and soft power for this country. Its reach can be pivotal.

There are so many personal memories and powerful fashion moments that I’ve had the privilege of witnessing. From my first shows in the 1990s, blagging my way into an Alexander McQueen show without a ticket, to the Hussein Chalayan table dress which still blows my mind. I am always amazed by how passionate people are — and I know there will be a few cheeky blaggers this season.

London Fashion Week moments are always electric — sometimes chaotic, rebellious and utterly thrilling. Shows evoke incredible emotion, from the joyful, whimsical exuberance of Anya Hindmarch’s presentations, to surprise live performances from major talent. Who could forget when Prince leaped on to Matthew Williamson’s catwalk or Alison Moyet belted out Only You to Burberry’s crowd right next to the Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens.

Something else London Fashion Week is great at? Showcasing our beautiful city. When venues are as varied as Labrum at Arsenal FC to Simone Rocha at Alexandra Palace, Burberry in Hyde Park and Harris Reed at the Tate Modern, these are the moments that remind us just how special our incredible capital is.

It’s the perfect backdrop for pushing boundaries. Speaking of which, you can’t talk about London Fashion Week without highlighting the incredible street style scene in London. Often it is just as significant as the shows — and anything goes. London always stands out from the rest. The originality of styles, diverse mix of cultures and vibrancy of the city often set global trends and are forever a source of inspiration. It’s here that you see the instant impact of the fresh designs — with the city donning looks inspired by the shows the day before. It’s not just about making a fashion statement; it is also about making political and cultural statements.

Of course, it’s the behind-the-scenes dramas that make London Fashion Week what it is. Those unexpected moments (Grace Jones at Philip Treacy!); the mad dashes between venues (keep your eyes peeled for supermodels on the back of motorbikes this weekend); the never-ending queues outside; and the sheer adrenaline of pulling everything together (usually last minute) that makes this industry so special. The curtain-raising outfit swaps, and the frantic searches for missing shoes are all part of what makes London Fashion Week so uniquely exhilarating.

As I step into this season, I am reminded of the extraordinary evolution of this industry — where we’ve come from and, most importantly, where we’re headed next and what we need to get there. Although we’d all prefer the landscape to be different, one thing I know is that this community is resilient and that creativity is supercharged when facing adversity.

London Fashion Week has always been about more than just fashion; it’s a global platform that amplifies talent, celebrates London as a cultural capital, and drives business and influence worldwide. This is something that every Londoner should take pride in. Our ecosystem of cutting-edge talent is envied the world over.

As for the shows, London has always been about more than household names. It’s about incredible creatives whose dresses steal the red-carpet moments, or who define new styles for the season ahead. It’s about excitement, anticipation, unexpected collections, new perspectives, everything the fashion industry needs and that London Fashion Week delivers like no other.

Look out for BFC NEWGEN designers or Fashion East for the new, and Burberry, Erdem, Roksanda, Emilia Wickstead, Ashish and Simone Rocha for the British fashion staples — and make sure you check out Harris Reed, SS Daley and all the other incredible designers on schedule.

While the industry might feel exhausted with the trials of trading, it is more important than ever that as a community we show up, we celebrate, and we support — from press, buyers, creatives, stylists, fashion lovers and yes, the Government — to ensure our designers can continue to lead, innovate, and grow.

How are we making this happen? By making sure the rest of the world sees us roar. We’re bringing key buyers and tastemakers to London — crucially, people with real spending power who can make a difference. This is thanks to funding from the Department for Business and Trade and the GREAT Campaign.