Some social media influencers sing its praises, but its nutritional values are contested. Robert F. Kennedy Jr stirred controversy last Thanksgiving with a social media video showcasing his preferred cooking method: deep-frying a turkey in beef tallow. "This is how we cook the MAHA way," Kennedy declared in the video, referencing his "Make America Healthy Again" slogan. Kennedy, recently confirmed as head of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, has consistently promoted beef tallow, rendered beef fat, as a healthier alternative to canola and other seed oils.
This stance has resonated with some social media influencers, but beef tallow’s nutritional values remain contested. While primarily used in cooking, beef tallow also finds its way into products like soap and biodiesel. The market for the product, estimated at US$480 million (£381m) in 2023, has seen steady growth since 2018, when it was valued at US$446m, according to the North American Renderers Association.
Producers anticipate further expansion, fueled in part by Kennedy's vocal endorsement. Some companies took note of rising interest even before his confirmation. In January, Indianapolis-based fast food chain Steak 'n Shake announced it would begin cooking its shoestring fries in beef tallow. The chain posted a photo on social media of Kennedy in a car with the window rolled down, with the caption: "Did this man just pull up in our drive thru?".
Other restaurant chains have also jumped onboard. Sweetgreen, the Los Angeles-based salad chain, is eliminating seed oils from its menus and using products like olive and avocado oil instead, while Blue Collar Restaurant Group, which owns restaurants in Wyoming and Montana, is replacing seed oils with butter and beef tallow as well as olive and avocado oil. The Center for Science in the Public Interest, a non-profit consumer advocacy group, has said that seed oil opponents overstate the risks of inflammation, heart disease and obesity from seed oil, and that a diet rich in saturated fats such as those found in meats, butter and cheese poses a larger health risk.
Yet a shift away from seed oils in cooking could accelerate with Kennedy as Health and Human Services Secretary. Kennedy may hold sway in appointing advisors to a panel that determines the Dietary Guidelines for Americans, a document created every five years by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration, according to Sarah Sorscher, director of regulatory affairs at the Center for Science in the Public Interest.
The guidelines are used in everything from the preparation of school lunches to the determination of daily values on food nutrition labels. Sorscher said Kennedy may influence research funding and push for regulation or even bans on products such as seed oils. He could also use the visibility of his new position to pressure companies to follow his lead on seed oils and beef tallow without having to enforce any changes in policy, she added.
"Those companies that are seeking to please him and secure favor might reformulate to remove products that he's targeted and remove ingredients that he's targeted," Sorscher said. Eric Gustafson, chief executive of California-based animal fat refiner Coast Packing Company, said he watched in the 1990s as fast food companies like McDonald's led a wholesale shift away from beef tallow to vegetable oils in response to medical research linking animal fats to heart disease.
