From sampling deep-fried insects at the night market to world-renowned healers, here’s how to make the most of a White Lotus-worthy holiday on the Thai island. The food. The people. The water. I was there to film season three of The White Lotus along with my co-stars (Michelle Monaghan, Parker Posey, Patrick Schwarzenegger, Aimee Lou Wood...) and our crew. We were there for seven months, February to August last year, interspersed with trips to Bangkok, Phuket and Bhutan.
I didn’t exactly have much of a choice in where I stayed. We moved location several times for filming, most of which was done at the Four Seasons. Each of us stayed in these surreally, absurdly luxurious villas for billionaires, because that’s where our characters would have stayed. You’re probably thinking that our director Mike White intended this as some sort of immersive role play – an attempt to get us in character. But that’s nonsense. It was a pragmatic choice as opposed to a psychological experiment.
I didn’t enjoy staying in a villa. Those at the Four Seasons were huge and came with a butler. Each had its own pool – and I mean a proper swimming pool, not just the little dippy ones. The whole thing made me feel deeply uncomfortable and quite lonely – like I was in a gilded cage. I much preferred the smaller hotels where all we had was a bedroom. I’m a vegan. Everyone said to me, “Thailand’s gonna be amazing for you!” It turned out to be the opposite. Being a vegan out there is a nightmare. Even the hotels don’t really cater for it. I ended up eating a variation on the same dish nearly every day: some version of tofu curry.
Nahm is beautiful for sunset; 2 Fishes is a really wonderful Italian restaurant that makes magnificent food; but my favourite place is not actually a restaurant but the Si Khao night market, where you’ll find all kinds of stalls with deep-fried, spicy insects. I went there on one of the first nights with my screen kids and managed to persuade them that I shouldn’t partake in sampling the local cuisine because I don’t eat meat. They all did, which I thought was rather brave.
I’d hop on a boat and find beautiful islands and pristine, deserted beaches to go snorkelling. Koh Samui is home to some spectacular underwater life; but even just sitting on the edge of a boat while the water sprays in your face is the best feeling. I’d rent the boat with some friends or join a group if you can, as they’re quite pricey to take out. Alternatively, I’d do a muay thai lesson at the martial arts school, Superpro.
The Na Muang Waterfall. Go to Thongtara. You’ll find they do the best massage in Koh Samui and unlike your hotel, they’ll charge you only $20. Make sure you ask for Kate. She is a universally acclaimed healer. I stupidly made the mistake of telling all my cast members about her and after that I could never get an appointment again. There are marijuana shops every five yards, if that’s your thing. And there are mopeds strewn all over the road where people have gotten drunk and crashed them. Personally, I prefer to let my hair down on the tennis court. I’m a mad keen tennis player and the court is where I come to clear my head and not think about anything. It’s worth bearing in mind the temperature in Thailand is about 100 degrees, so I was playing tennis in an ankle-deep puddle of sweat. I had to tape my fingers up like I was some sort of mummy to prevent the racket from slipping out of my hands or flying off mid-shot. The same sort of tape Nadal uses to avoid blisters.
I'd encourage people to do more in Koh Samui with their money than shop. When you leave, make a donation to any one of the wonderful charities that combat child slavery in the sex and fishing industries. Then you know you’ll have left the place better than you found it. Heat rash. Patrick Schwarzenegger and Sam Nivola were always up for a fun time: go anywhere, do anything, eat anything. Head up Lanlandaw for spectacular views at sunset. It’s a trek; a car can only get you halfway up the mountain and you’ll need a four-wheel drive to take you all the way to the top. But entirely worth it.
A tennis racket and a million cables. I’m a geek and travel with a ton of batteries, portable chargers and adapters. I like to know that I could survive for six months without power. My co-star Michelle Monaghan’s husband is an amateur DJ. They threw a party one night where he remixed The White Lotus theme track with an electronic dance beat. Everybody was jumping up and down, singing along to that weird bubbly sound. That would probably be the song that reminds me of Thailand most; although we also did karaoke a couple of times, but I’m not telling you what I sang.
Nothing. It’s too hot. I injured myself several times during filming and developed an unfair reputation for being accident prone. The first time was very early on when we were shooting in the villa [in the Four Seasons]. I was told I could be seen in the doorway waiting to enter. So I backed up – and they had not made that little corridor safe. I plummeted backwards into a mini pool that had a statue in it and smashed my head.
