I spent 72 hours in the ‘Red City’ where sober tourism is booming
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Scooters spinning around corners. Vendors chattering next to sacks of spices. The scent of orange rind drifting on the breeze as someone shouts ‘Oi, fish and chips’ at my English boyfriend. I’m in Marrakech to investigate ‘sober tourism’, a growing trend among Millennials and Gen Z, who are drinking less than older generations.
Morocco is not known for its champagne lifestyle; it’s a Muslim country where alcohol is permitted only under strict regulation in licensed bars and hotels. But this is a place that doesn’t need booze to be interesting. Opulent palaces, ancient architecture and atmospheric souks with exotic cuisine are all making the city known as the ‘Jewel of the South’ an increasingly popular choice for sober travellers.
The narrow passageways of the 12th century medina (old town) lead us to Riad Noir d’Ivoire, one of the Red City’s top-rated traditional hotels. Suites with private roof terraces, jacuzzis and luxurious bathtubs won’t break the bank. The honeymoon suite, for example, starts from £104 per night.
A 30-minute stroll into the mazelike medina is Medersa Ben Youssef. Founded in the 14th century, the Islamic school was once the largest in North Africa and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Entry is roughly £5. The central courtyard is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, featuring a reflective pool and cedar wood walls with intricate carvings of Quranic verses. I sit and drink in the design for over an hour.