Nigel Slater’s recipes for baked potatoes, beans and chilli, and potato, cheddar and rosemary pie
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It’s still cold enough for a big dish of soul-warming potatoes, in a pie or piled high with beans. There is a tiny room in the basement with walls of whitewashed brick and stone shelves as thick as a bible. I have never known its original use, but it is where I keep cake tins and baking sheets, casseroles and bun tins. As you open the creaking door, you are greeted by a teetering pile of tart tins.: A cheap enamelled dish with a wide rim, a thin blue line running around its chipped edge; a deep fluted tin with a loose base for tarts of frangipane and stone fruits; and a wide, shallow, cast-iron tart tin, which I use for chicken or mushroom pies, open-faced treacle tarts and, today, a pie for the coldest of days, thick with potatoes, crème fraîche, rosemary and mustard.
![[Nigel Slater]](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/uploads/2017/10/09/Nigel_Slater,-L.png?width=75&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none)
Such double-carb suppers – let us not pretend this is anything but comfort food – are welcome on a freezing night, when you have been blown home by an icy wind. The pastry and potatoes offer sustenance, the cream solace and the mustard will warm cold bones. If a pie seems too much trouble, then I will bake a potato or two and slather them not with butter, but with a ragu of butter beans, tomato and chillies. Either will send me into a blissful, end of winter’s day slumber.
![[The upper crust: classy potato, cheddar and rosemary pie.]](https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/747525fcd6c0c8bf354b7dd9d7d2b28d8cda5c3e/168_320_4672_5837/master/4672.jpg?width=445&dpr=1&s=none&crop=none)
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