Notes on a sandal: why I’m a Birkenstock afficionado
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As the brand sues rivals, arguing its designs are artefacts that transcend footwear, a devotee hails the 250-year-old, once humble corkbed shoes. Birkenstock is suing several competitors for allegedly copying four of its most recognisable styles: the Arizona and Madrid sandals, the Gizeh flip-flop, and the Boston clog – a closed-toe design beloved by the likes of Kaia Gerber, Jason Momoa and Gigi Hadid, with sales in 2024 more than doubling the company’s average.
Defending its litigious stance, the German brand, which has been crafting sandals in the Linz am Rhein region since the 18th century, claims its products transcend everyday footwear and should instead be considered pieces of “applied art” – wearable artefacts of historic craftsmanship deserving protection from imitators such as Tchibo, another German company, which is named in the lawsuit.
Over its 250 years in business, the brand has achieved an extraordinary level of cultural significance. Since introducing the corkbed sandals that made its name in the 1960s, Birkenstock has become one of those rare companies entirely synonymous with the product it creates. To own a pair of Birkenstocks is to own a slice of history – instantly recognisable by name and inextricably woven into the culture. Applied art? Perhaps. Fashion world lodestone? Certainly.
The brand’s recent success speaks volumes. In 2021, Birkenstock partnered with the private equity firm L Catterton – co-owned by LVMH boss Bernard Arnault – in a deal valued at £3.99bn. By the second quarter of 2024, its sales had risen 19%, reaching £474m. With such exponential growth – not to mention unparalleled brand recognition (according to research carried out by Statista in 2024, the Birkenstock name was known to 57% of US consumers) – it is understandable that the firm would want to protect its intellectual property and, by extension, its market share. Copycats not only undermine Birkenstock’s hard-earned reputation, but also erode the sense of exclusivity that keeps loyal customers coming back for more.
