Africa’s ‘windy city’ is eclipsed by bigger names, but I can’t wait to go back

I must admit that Morocco had never been at the top of my bucket list. Life in London is non-stop, and holidays are the one time I am really able to relax and unwind. When I take a week off, you’ll find me lying on a beach, cocktail in hand with my head in a book, forcing myself not to think about work. Which is why, with the tourist traps and electric energy of large cities like Marrakech, I always felt Morocco was not the place for me.

Then I discovered Essaouira, North Africa’s best-kept secret. South of the ‘Red City’ of Marrakech, Essaouira (pronounced essa-weera) is a coastal town of winding alleyways and windswept walls, with gold sandy beaches and eclectic Maghrebi culture. Cool, compact and creative, the ‘Windy City of Africa’ is a place of two halves, where a centuries-old medina (old town) full of scented spice and chattering street sellers sits cheek by jowl with the lapping waves of the Atlantic Ocean.

My first stop was to drop my bags at the charming Riad Al Medina (from £38 per night), a traditional Moroccan building with an open roof and a central garden courtyard with elaborate tiles and a water fountain. Historically designed for wealthy families or merchants, riads provide an oasis from bustling city streets. Today, they’re most commonly used as hotels and short-term rentals for tourists.

Buried in the heart of Essaouira, the riad’s front door opens directly onto Souk Jdid in the old town centre, a labyrinth of markets that still feel mercifully off the tourist track. In many ways, the old town is similar to Marrakech’s, but on a smaller scale with less crowds. Ryanair runs direct flights from London Stansted to Essaouira, with return fares from £43 in February. Alternatively, fly to Marrakech with British Airways, Wizz Air or Ryanair, then take a 3 hour bus or taxi to Essaouira.

As with any North African city, the best way to explore Essaouira is to lose yourself in its mazelike alleyways. I was struck by how safe I felt, everywhere I walked. And if you truly do lose your way, a friendly local gave me a tip: ‘Look up, find the city walls, and follow them.’. Known as Skala de la Ville, these walls were built in the 18th century when Essaouira was occupied by the Portuguese; if you’ve watched Game of Thrones, you’re bound to recognise them as the site where Daenerys Targaryen found her Unsullied soldiers.

Beware while you wander, though, for temptation lies around every corner. It’s difficult to resist some retail therapy, with brightly coloured jewllery and handmade souvenirs literally spilling out onto the street. Essaouira is famous for its rugs, artwork, bags and accessories, but its most iconic export is hand-painted ceramics. If you can haggle, this is the place to try. I had a go without much luck, but still came home with a suitcase full of trinkets.

Beyond the city walls is Essaouira beach, a long stretch of golden sand that’s more than a hub for wind and kitesurfing. I spent an afternoon here hopping between beach bars and rows of camels resting on the sand as thrillseekers caught waves in the distance. Essaouira’s gusty shores attract surfers and creatives from across the world, a community that adds to its laidback vibe. A local tour guide pointed out a landmark just off the coast known as the ‘Castle of Sand’. He said it was the inspiration for the iconic Jimi Hendrix album after he visited Morocco in the 1960s.

Nods to music legends are visible everywhere you go. From Mick Jagger to Robert Plant, rock n’ roll titans have spent time in Essaouira, searching for inspiration for the music we know and love. Essaouira was once one of the main trading and fishing ports in West Africa, and it remains busy to this day. Take a few steps along the port, and you’ll be met with the unmistakable smell of freshly caught seafood.

From muhammara dip to baba ghanoush and lentil stews with preserved lemons, I tried eclectic flavours that I’ve never tasted before. Still, the standout dish was simple: fresh, grilled sardines. Delightful. Eating in Morocco is an activity in itself; try everything you can. I was in Essaouira for MOGA festival, an international event combining traditional Moroccan music with world-renowned DJs. The boutique festival, voted one of the world’s best festivals for 2025 by Time Out, spans techno, house and disco, with genre heavyweights like Dekmantel previously playing headline sets.

The festival also showcases local talent, and promises a ‘holistic’ experience that blends raves with beachside yoga. From electronic sets atop the city walls to dancing by the pool at the five-star Sofitel Golf & Spa, MOGA surprised me by showing how historic Essaouira was, in fact, an ideal setting for a modern festival crowd. Just as the bustling souk compliments the calm of the ocean, old and new blend seamlessly here. In the middle of a sunset DJ lesson on the terrace of a rooftop bar, we heard the muezzin’s call to prayer drift out across the city.