How this luxury hotel on a remote Indonesian island is using horses for wellness

Horses are the heart and soul of the the Indonesian island of Sumba – and during her stay ‘on the edge of wilderness’, Annabel Grossman learns how they are used for meditation, healing and education. Louie has decided to do his own thing. The young horse breaks free from the herd and gallops down the beach bucking and kicking. Rather than make chase, staff watch him, laughing at the one-year-old’s exuberance and energy, before he happily trots back to his herd. Because that’s how horses act here at Nihi Sumba - they’re encouraged to follow their natural instincts and act wild and free.

It’s a striking change from how we usually see domesticated horses. Training or ‘breaking’ horses tends to involve metal bits in the animals’ mouth, necks pulled into uncomfortable-looking ‘outlines’, and whips and spurs used as aids. A spotlight was recently shone on the way humans interact with horses when British dressage rider Charlotte Dujardin was banned from the 2024 Paris Olympics after a video emerged of her repeatedly whipping a horse’s legs during a coaching session. There have also been increasing concerns over horse racing, with the excessive use of whips coming under scrutiny, and concerns raised about the number of animal deaths – three horses died in just one day at Cheltenham last November. It seems that the equestrian world may be facing something of a reckoning.

But at Nihi Sumba, horses are viewed differently. The horses are used for beach and trail rides, as well as swimming with guests, but the focus is on encouraging horses to follow their natural instincts rather than being forced through fear or violence. Read more: Inside the tiny Thai island working hard to protect the sea life. Louie’s antics occur during the running of the horses on Nihi Sumba’s beach when the herd gallops together from their yard at ‘Sandalwood Stables’ along the shoreline to graze in the fields overlooking the beach.

Situated ‘on the edge of wilderness’ on the idyllic island of Sumba in Indonesia, a short flight from Bali, Nihi is one of the most admired hotels in the world thanks to its exquisite combination of simplicity and luxury. At the soul of Nihi Sumba is its horses – everything that the hotel stands for is embodied in these animals: a sense of spirituality, rugged beauty and connection with nature. The spectacle of a herd of horses galloping along the white sands has, unsurprisingly, become social media-famous – you’ll spot reels and videos all over Instagram and TikTok. But to stand with your feet in the sand and sea spray from the wild surf crashing behind you as the steady thunder of hooves passes by is completely magical.

“Guests are captivated by the horses’ freedom and vitality,” equestrian consultant Evelien Akerboom, who runs the horse programmes at Nihi, tells me. “Allowing the horses to run as a herd reflects their natural instincts, promoting both their physical and mental well-being. Guests love watching them gallop freely along the beach – a daily highlight and a true testament to Nihi’s wild spirit.”.

She adds: “Many describe their interactions – beach rides, ocean swims, and pony play for children – as transformative. One of the simplest pleasures is sitting quietly with the horses as they graze naturally on the lush land surrounding Nihi – an experience that guests find incredibly calming and grounding.”. Recognising the impact that the horses have on their guests, the team at Nihi are increasingly using horses in their wellness programmes, and have recently started running Equine Intuitive Awareness Retreats that harness the calming and healing power of horses. The retreats include energy awareness sessions, meditation with horses, reiki healing, and equine yoga, as well as swimming with horses and beach rides.

They also feature a half-day spa safari, which involves riding through jungle and across fields to Nihi’s spa, which is situated several miles across the island on what must be one of the most beautiful sections of coastline in Indonesia. When the horses retire from Sandalwood Stables they are brought to graze here, joining a smaller herd that roams around the spa grounds. Guests can have a massage at one of the open-air treatment rooms that overlook the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean below, or even in the manège while the horses wander around.

Read more: The Caribbean island perfect for a female-focused wellness break. Key to the equine retreats is the philosophy that when a horse is in their natural environment and treated with respect, care and understanding, they can be beneficial to humans. Evelien says: “Horses embody mindfulness and connection, making them a natural complement to wellness practices. Their calming presence and innate ability to sense human emotions enhance experiences such as equine therapy, yoga, and meditation, – promoting relaxation, emotional healing, and a deep sense of harmony with nature.”.