As a sat sipping on my latte — one of many choices on the menu in this avid coffee drinking city — the aroma of cigarette smoke wafted past me. The open door let in the warm air from the outside in a way that made it hard to believe I'd been in frosty December London that morning. Gentle chatter rose and subsided while business owners readied their restaurants for the evening.
Tirana, Albania's capital, may not be the first destination that comes to mind when thinking of somewhere to go for a short break, but perhaps it should be. This historic city has layers of personality, intricately woven into a singular identity that holds onto its past and culture.
Just over three hours by plane from the UK, Tirana is compact and easily walkable, with its main attractions conveniently close and surprisingly affordable. For instance, the Museum of Leaves—once used by the Gestapo and other intelligence agencies — costs just over £5 to enter. Bunk'Art 2, a striking underground bunker with 24 rooms, is slightly more at £7.
Being in Tirana feels like stepping back in time. It's one of few global cities free from McDonalds and Starbucks. Instead its streets and buildings vividly tell Albania's story. Harsh, utilitarian Soviet-style structures stand side-by-side with vibrant, colourful villas; a contrast that mirrors Tirana’s evolution from a temporary capital to a burgeoning tourist hub.
Littered through the backstreets you will find places locals love to eat, featuring dishes of grilled meats and salads, as well as Albanian pastries. Prices range from 500 LEK (£4.22) to 1500 LEK (£12.65) per dish, and pastries can be found as low as 150 LEK (£1.27).
