A Neopolitan once told me they look death in the eye every day. They were, of course, referring to Mount Vesuvius, the ancient, still active volcano that looms ominously over the charming yet historically troubled Italian city of Naples. Before my first visit in 2022, I had no wish to visit the capital of Campania. Often described as dark and dirty, I’d heard stories of its association with the Mafia, high crime rates, and a notorious toxic waste problem that’s seen the city nicknamed the ‘Triangle of Death.’ Not the most enticing qualities for tourists.
But while some of these tales proved to be partially true, I was wrong to judge. For every mound of rubbish, an exquisite piece of architecture overshadows it. This city is raw, high-octane and fizzing with life — bursting with energy from its gritty laneways to perpetually fired-up pizza ovens. Naples was recently crowned the world’s best city for food, with good reason.
Like the rest of Italy, Naples is easy to reach. Low-cost airlines fly direct from London’s Gatwick and Luton airports, with return fares on easyJet from €81 (£67); Wizz Air from €103 (£85). Despite sizzling temperatures, Naples has traditionally lured travellers in the hot summer months when locals flee to cooler climes. Peak season runs from June through August, but low season – from November to March – is a more rewarding time to visit.
