While full of colour, black pervaded throughout: many of the models walked the runway with a single black feather tucked into their chests, while one of the standout pieces was a black puffball skirt worn with nothing but a matching blazer.
The first portion of the collection was almost exclusively black, whether it was an elegant full-skirted brocade gown, an upscale velvet bodice, or even a ribbon-covered netted T-shirt dress, black was everywhere to be seen.
Black and navy polka-dotted smocks inspired by the subversive but deeply troubled Empress Elisabeth of Austria, whose 19th century aesthetic was imagined by way of several dark pieces, ranging from netted veils and skirts to velvet gloves and lace trims.
Gone are the usual big hitters – and celebrity favourites – like JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Nensi Dojaka, Chopova Lowena, and 16Arlington, who this season has forgone a traditional show format by way of an intimate dinner where guests will wear the new collection.
The tone was set at Harris Reed with a collection titled “Gilded” that was mostly made up of black sculptural gowns featuring mere flashes of gold and blue.
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