Irish designer Paul Costelloe gave a lesson in elevating country wear with his autumn/winter 2025 collection at London Fashion Week. Costelloe, 79, is best known for having been appointed Diana, the Princess of Wales’ personal designer in 1983, a collaboration that flourished until her untimely death.
It seems this particular collection drew upon Diana’s looks from days at the races, when she was being courted by Prince Charles. Costelloe is famed for his elegant and classic tailoring, blending traditional and contemporary design – which was apparent in his chic but heritage outerwear.
Presented to the symphonies of Celtic music, Costelloe stayed true to his roots, incorporating heavy Magees of Ireland and Harris Tweed of Scotland – weaving Celtic accents into the collection. Born in Dublin but now based in London, Costelloe presented his autumn/winter collection at the luxurious Waldorf Hilton Hotel.
The Grade-II Edwardian-style building posed as the perfect backdrop for a collection oozing with old-school glamour. Inspired by the elite pastime of dressage, Costelloe reflected the volume, space and energy apparent in the hobby. With sumptuous flowing gowns, ruffled miniskirts and pluming wool coats – the show provided a modern take on the equestrian style.
The palette was one of chestnut browns, creams, berry reds and forest greens. As with his last collection, Costelloe played with loud prints, such as minidresses and evening gowns emblazoned with vintage photographs of showjumping and dressage. Like with many collections this season, there were apparent nods to the Eighties through full waisted belts, broad shoulders and bold prints.
Combined with the show’s equestrian notes, it echoed the scenes of Jilly Cooper’s aristocratic Cotswolds set. What was once an unglamorous aesthetic, equestrian accents have become an elegant and refined sartorial choice – with jodhpurs, riding boots and suspenders bumping back up the style charts, following Gucci’s equestrian-inspired autumn/winter 2024 show.
In Costelloe’s collection, riding blazers and culottes were paired with dainty stilettos and wool stockings. Pluming thick-waisted skirts were paired with suspenders and suede evening gloves. It was truly a marriage of stable gear and glamour. The evening-wear was similarly a gorgeously feminine display – with the runway awash with autumnal bold florals.
The outerwear was undoubtedly the star of the show. Both feminine yet practical, the coats and capes evoked Chloé’s eminent fall/winter 2024 collection. Costelloe’s voluminous silhouettes and sumptuous wool showcased cosy country glamour with a touch of preppy panache.
Accessories also played a key part, with saddle bags in full grain leather, thick waisted belts and fingerless riding gloves evoking the sophisticated country pastime. The beauty looks also took inspiration from the dressage horse, with Toni & Guy’s Cos Sakkas designing braided ponytails with slicked side parts for the models.
The collection received a standing ovation (a rarity at London Fashion Week) as ‘we must say goodbye’ beamed through the sound system. “I thought the prints were amazing, I’m obviously from an equestrian background, and I thought [the collection] was cut beautifully, elegant, and sophisticated yet sexy,” said supermodel Jodie Kidd of the collection.
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