Before spring swings into full bloom, garden aficionados are rolling up their sleeves for crucial prep work, particularly when it comes to tending roses in chilly February. Monty Don, the green-fingered guru famed for presenting Gardeners' World, advises that this month is prime time for pruning your roses, and assures it's nothing to fret over. On his website, the horticulture heavyweight reassured rose lovers, stating: "There is no mystery to pruning roses and there is practically nothing you can do that the plant will not recover from. So relax and enjoy it! ""The only rules are to use sharp secateurs or loppers so the cuts are never forced and to try and cut just above a bud or leaf and don't worry if it is outward facing or not. Any bud will do.".

He highlighted the importance of keeping buds intact, as these are the birthplaces of new blossoms. By trimming away any superfluous foliage, roses can channel their vim and vigour into sprouting fresh blooms rather than sustaining old stems. The chief aim of pruning is twofold: spurring on flowering and safeguarding the rose's well-being, all while dodging diseases. He advises ensuring the cleanliness of your pruning tools with some alcohol rub, and to give them a swift wipe post-snips, reports the Express.

Commence by sizing up your bush for any broken, diseased, or crisscrossing branches - these are to be snipped off right away, since better air flow around the flowers wards off moisture and stops fungal maladies in their tracks. Monty advised on proper rose care, saying: "First, remove all damaged or crossing stems. Then, cut back hard any stems that look too weak to support their own weight. Finally, remove any old, woody stems that are crowding the shrub by cutting right down to their base.".

When it comes to late winter pruning, it's crucial not to overdo it with rose bushes; trimming only a third of the plant's height is key for promoting larger blooms, as going further could stress the plant. Monty explained: "Most shrub roses do not need any other pruning but can be reduced by a third to encourage early budding and a more compact shape.". He also detailed the approach for other varieties: "Hybrid teas, Floribundas and China roses follow the same sort of remedial treatment and then have all remaining healthy shoots cut back by two-thirds to leave a basic framework from which the new flowering shoots will grow.".

For climbing roses, Monty highlighted the importance of shaping while minimising pruning, whereas rambler roses should wait until warmer weather for their health. Monty said: "Climbing roses should be pruned to maintain a framework of long stems trained as laterally as possible with side branches breaking vertically all the way along them. "Ramblers differ from climbers, which tend to have large flowers, often appearing more than once in the summer and on, some continuously for months. These need little pruning at all and never in winter or spring as the flowers are carried mostly on stems grown in late summer. Any pruning to train or restrict them should be done after flowering.".