A Londoner in Lombok… A solo trip to this affordable-luxe hotel was life-affirming

As I wait on the dock at Padang Bai ferry port in east Bali to board one of the notoriously choppy rides to Lombok, I have a sinking feeling. It’s not because I am anticipating the sea sickness (the bucket of free tablets at check-in ensured I won’t be suffering). Nor is it an episode of the Bali belly everyone bar me had experienced on the group trip I’ve just been on for a week — somehow that has passed me by. No, it’s the fact I am about to spend three days alone.

I am an extrovert. This was confirmed by the fact that spending those seven days with 15 total strangers left me feeling uplifted and energised. So the idea of being alone for 72 hours — in spite of the gorgeous ocean-view villa that awaits me at The Oberoi Beach Resort — is enough to make me panic. Especially as, according to a Human Design reading (a form of pseudo science that tells you about your innate personality) at my retreat I feel “unsafe alone” and seek the company of others at all costs. Uh oh.

However, solo travel has gained pace rapidly among women my age in their mid-thirties, with Virtuoso’s recent trends report revealing that women now make up 71 per cent of those going it alone on a trip. The internet has even coined the term ‘me-moon’ for a luxury holiday on your own. Why should singles miss out on an indulgent break and self-care time? The trend suggests. And while the term ‘me-moon’ is another thing that’s nauseating to me; with a minimal itinerary ahead of me, I am intrigued by the idea of calling all of the shots on a trip. And a five-star holiday alone has the obvious Home Alone appeal.

After two wifi-less hours observing the waves lashing at my window I’m at Bangsal Harbour. And once my suitcase is thrown up onto dock from the boat by two stocky sailors, I step off, find my land legs and set about meeting my driver. And soon we’re on our way to the hotel, a speedy 10-minute drive away. I get a quick taste of the landscape of Bali’s sleepier cousin (as Lombok is known) en route. A predominantly Muslim country it has imposing and pretty, jewel-coloured mosques lining the highways, punctuated by rice paddies, and misty mountain vistas at every turn.

After pulling into Lombok’s Oberoi outpost I am confronted with a breathtaking sea view of the private beach and an impressive infinity pool. Plus I’m served a ginger infused juice to settle my stomach (very welcome) and a few local sweet cakes (even more welcome). I’m shown to my villa, which has a stunning private garden and pool behind stone walls. The thatched roof accommodation sits opposite a pair of enticing loungers and a cabana for dining; and there’s an ocean view from sliding doors inside, which lead to another patio. It’s basically my own fortress and with rooms from £250, it’s clear value is impressive in Lombok.

Inside, the room has a vaulted ceiling, there’s an epic four-poster canopy bed, plus two generous wardrobes and a bathroom to top most bathrooms. It’s all marble details, with a step-down bath which overlooks a mini garden and stone sculpture, and has his-n-hers sinks (or in my case mine-n-mine sinks). So obviously my first port of call is a candle-lit bubble bath. I feel very romanced by the hotel.

Then there’s a dip in the pool, a wander around the manicured gardens and a stop to grab a coconut at the dedicated stall amid the palm trees. Then before I know it, it’s dinnertime. Obviously I order room service and am served at the cabana when the waiter rings my doorbell. The menu is a mix of local dishes crafted with the freshest ingredients, as well as Indian classics, as the Oberoi’s original outpost is in north-central India. As with all service over the next few days, there is a sense of ceremony and zero waste: everything is unpacked from pretty Batak napkins and bamboo or woven baskets. I could get used to this, I think.

And I do over the next few days, whiling away hours with excursions to Tiu Kelep Waterfall, ordering snacks to my lounger overlooking the beach, eating as many roti wraps as I can handle, and sauntering around the grounds taking endless sunset snaps. While feeling particularly amorous after a Balinese massage (medium equals pretty firm in case you’re wondering) and a calming foot bath with floating frangipani, I find myself sitting down on a swing at sunset, and with a flower behind my ear I’m compelled to take a selfie. Yes, I’m nauseated with myself, but when on your solo trip etc etc.

Though on day three my emergency situation prediction comes to fruition. After a few hours of snorkelling the Gili islands — spotting numerous tortoises, tropical fishes and the famous Gili Meno statue under the sea — I am walking on the beach feeling ecstatic and full of vitamin sea and D, only to feel like a brick has just hit my foot. It’s actually a huge lump of coral washed up in the surf. Yes, the ocean is biting back.

But back at the hotel the friendly reception staff help me strap it up, and I head to the beach for BBQ night. As I hobble to my seat a couple ask me to join them (not in that way… I don’t think). They are surprised to hear I’m here alone, but they’re interested to hear about my time, and have extended their stay. I can see why. And while three days alone is probably enough for me (and my health) I feel revived, relaxed and in awe of how beautiful the island is.