Cloaked by a ceiling of rugs and tapestries, I jostle through smoky alleyways flanked by puffy white chickens clucking in their cages. The atmosphere is electric. It can be nowhere on Earth but Morocco. I’m winding my way through the maze-like souk of El Jadida, a chaotic but authentic Moroccan port city that’s yet to be invaded by the tourists that swarm Marrakesh. Built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, El Jadida – sometimes nicknamed ‘the Hamptons of Morocco’ – is now a multicultural metropolis about a 90-minute drive from the iconic ‘white city’ of Casablanca.
My base for exploring this UNESCO-listed treasure was the five-star Mazagan Beach & Golf Resort, a luxurious hotel on the Atlantic coast that boasts 7km of private beach and lavish suites dotted around a swimming pool. It has all the hallmarks of an outrageously expensive resort, at odds with the insultingly cheap street food just a 25-minute drive away in the city. But in reality, this hotel (and others like it) is remarkably cheap. In low season, which counterintuitively runs from late May to September when temperatures climb to 50C, rooms start at just £126 per night.
And, as the journey involves a three-hour flight followed by a drive from Casablanca, you could argue that it’s both cheaper and less stressful than a summer getaway to the Greek islands. One-way tickets to Casablanca start from £63. This is exactly what you’ll find if you decide to check in. After a busy day of haggling and standing on lookout towers admiring the ocean, the only remedy is a trip to the spa.
Mazagan has an excellent hammam, where I got the best massage I’ve ever had (and I’ve had a few). There’s plenty of ways to work up a sweat on the hotel’s 250-hectare estate, from horse riding and quad biking to an 18-hole golf course designed by champion golfer Gary Player. As a child, I had a handful of horse riding lessons and wanted to reignite my love for it, so I head to the stables. What followed was a stunning hour-long ride along the shore, with my cheeky steed Joe. I fought the urge to recreate the vision of galloping down the beach, waves breaking around the horse’s hooves.
Later, I tried my luck on a quad bike, cutting a course through golden sand. It’ll now be something I add to my activity list wherever I go and it’s the perfect option for a family with an adventurous side. I even had a go on the golf course. Known as the most difficult in North Africa, it has sweeping views of the Atlantic, and stretches across 6,885 metres, making it one of the longest courses in the Morocco.
Suffice to say, I’ll never tut at Rory McIlroy for missing a put again. With so many activities on offer – and at no extra cost – it’s easy to try something new and fall in love with it. Think of it as a place of beginnings. The culinary highlight of Mazagan’s 15 bars and restaurants is unquestionably its seafood bistro, Sel de Mar. The menu’s north star was a stunning oyster aperitif and salmon ceviche with ginger and mango.
The beachside Buddha Bar offers a more relaxed setting, where you can order pan-Asian cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi and beautifully cooked steak. Mazi, by the pool, serves tasty Greek mezze. If you’re gluten-free like I am, Morocco isn’t going to provide you with an abundance of options. But at this hotel, the ones you do have are delicious. The Mazagan’s five-star treatment extends beyond the hotel gates. A guided excursion around the medina (old town) is just one of the experiences offered by the resort, but it’s one you don’t want to miss.
The ancient streets are a smorgasbord for history and architecture lovers, with a Portuguese cistern and Gothic church dominating the skyline. El Jadida’s medina is said to be the most European-looking in Morocco. No visit is complete without a walk along the city walls, which capture panoramic views of the ocean. Set sail to the Mediterranean in 2025 – here's all you need to know. Private beach clubs, Art Deco delights and the world’s second-largest reef on the ultimate Caribbean cruise.
Top 10 travel brands you need to know about for tour next adventure. The 'most isolated metropolis on Earth' where the next big city is 1,305 miles away. Ryanair scraps multiple routes to avoid paying too much tax. A short drive from the old town is Sidi Bouafi Lighthouse, a prime spot for photography and bird-watching. Do you have a story to share?. Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@Metro.co.uk. Arrow MORE: My first safari holiday was as magical as it looks in the movies.
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